![]() Inside your headlight is where much of the wiring converges, so is a good place to start. When working on your existing wiring loom it is best not to just start cutting wildly (like I do!) but to be very careful. Personally, I sometimes strip my bikes even further, but I’ll mention that further down the page. This diagram is setup to run a headlight and brake light, keep your battery charged, and have a keyed ignition. ![]() I tried not to tailor it specifically to any particular model of bike, and I tried to make it as easy to understand as possible – but really any 70’s and early 80’s model bike with carbs will adapt to this diagram quite well. By trimming down the wiring you’ll be saving complexity, saving weight, and cleaning up the look of your bike.īelow is a generic wiring diagram I whipped up that can be used as a guideline. It doesn’t take a whole lot of wiring to keep a bike on the road, especially if you don’t want to cater to the law word for word. A lot of the controls can be removed, blinkers, gauges and indicators, relays and switches. If you are trying to build a stripped down bike there is a lot going on that you don’t need. Lots of 70’s and 80’s bikes will look the same, especially the four cylinders. ![]() The above diagram is from a Honda CB750 Custom dual cam bike. You might have checked the wiring diagram for your bike already and seen something like this: These days I just grab my wire snips and start trimming away with no regard for common sense and caution – but if you are working with your first wiring loom I’m going to try and give you some guidance right now. Sometimes people are just trying to fix their blinkers and aren’t familiar with how motorcycle electrics work – but more often than not I get requests about trimming down electronics for custom riders.Īn essential part of building any sort of chopper, bobber, cafe racer, brat bike, or rat rod is getting rid of all the unnecessary items. I get a lot of questions about wiring motorcycles.
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